Methods

1. Heat a tadka spoon or small skillet over medium heat. Add the coriander, cumin, and fennel seeds, and toast, stirring or swirling frequently, until the coriander seeds turn a few shades darker and the spices start to smell toasty, 1 to 2 minutes. Transfer to a spice grinder and let cool for 10 minutes, then pulse into a medium-coarse powder, 4 to 7 pulses. Set aside.
2. If using the dhungar method, place the piece of charcoal over a medium flame and heat until white hot on the outside, 12 to 18 minutes. Wrap the bottom of a katori or small metal bowl in aluminum foil and set aside. (If you don’t have a katori, alternatively, you can wrap a small ramekin completely in foil.)
3. While the spices are cooling, grate the onions. Place a large piece of cheesecloth or a clean kitchen linen on a cutting board, then grate the onions on the large side of a box grater onto the cloth. Wrap tightly and squeeze out and discard as much liquid as possible.
4. Transfer the squeezed, grated onion to the bowl and add the lamb, garlic, serrano peppers, cilantro, garam masala, chilli powder, ground ginger, caraway seeds, salt, and the reserved toasted, ground spices. Using your hand, mix the seasoning into the meat, and continue to mix until the fat from the meat starts to emulsify and the meat mixture starts to stick to the sides of the bowl, 3 to 5 minutes. If not using the dhungar method, chill the meat mixture for 30 minutes.
5. If using the dhungar method, press the katori or foil-wrapped ramekin into the center of the meat mixture. Place the heated piece of coal in the katori and spoon the ghee on top of the charcoal—it will start smoking immediately!—then wrap the top of the bowl tightly with aluminum foil to seal and let it sit for 10 to 15 minutes to allow the smoke to infuse in the meat. Remove the katori, discarding the charcoal. Cover and chill the meat mixture for 30 minutes.
6. To prepare the skewers, take three 10-inch wooden skewers and place them on a 12-inch piece of aluminum foil, then roll them in the foil so you have one ½-inch round make-shift kebab skewer. Repeat until you have 8 skewers.
7. Preheat the oven to 450°F while you form the kebabs.
8. To form the kebabs, divide the chilled meat mixture into eight equal portions. Wet your hands (this will help prevent the meat from sticking to your hands), take one portion and roll into an oval, then make an indentation and press one of the prepared skewers into the mixture. Form the mixture around the skewer, then start gently squeezing the mixture, pressing it up and down the length of the skewer until you have an even 9-inch long cylinder around the skewer. Transfer the finish skewer to a wire rack-lined half sheet pan and repeat with the remaining meat mixture, spacing the skewers about ½ inch apart on the pan in a single layer.
9. Bake the formed kebabs until cooked through, 12 to 15 minutes. Finish under the broiler until starting to lightly brown on top, 2 to 5 minutes. Let cool for 5 minutes, then twist off the kebabs off the skewers, transfer to a cutting board and cut in half crosswise. To serve, arrange on a platter alongside a bowl of green chutney and lemon wedges.

Recipe Note: You can make the meat mixture up to 1 day in advance and either refrigerate it unformed or form the kebabs and refrigerate it that way. Want to cook these on the grill? We got ya covered. Prepare a charcoal or gas grill with one cool side and one hot side, then cook the kebabs, covered, until just cooked through, 7 to 10 minutes, flipping halfway through. Finish the kebabs on the hot side of the grill until lightly browned, 1 to 3 minutes per side.