Methods

FOR THE CAKE

THE FLAVOR APPROACH

• Ginger and black pepper give this cake its warmth.
• The aromatic molecules in the spices and lime zest are extracted into the butter, where they are highly soluble, before they are incorporated into the cake batter.
• There are a few ways to tell if a cake is done: You can insert a skewer through the center, and it should come out completely clean. But you can also tell if a cake is done by gently pressing the surface; it should spring back to its original form in a few seconds. If the cake isn’t done, it will remain depressed after the pressure is removed, as the flour has not yet formed the necessary structure.

1. Grease a 9 in [23 cm] square baking pan with a little butter and line with parchment paper. Grease the parchment paper.
2. Melt the butter in a small saucepan over medium heat. Remove from the heat and stir in the ginger, black pepper, cardamom, and lime zest. Let steep for 10 minutes.
3. Sift the flour, baking soda, and salt through a fine-mesh sieve into a large bowl. Reserve 2 Tbsp of the flour mixture in a small bowl, add the crystallized ginger to it, and toss to coat well.
4. Preheat the oven to 325°F [163°C]. Place the sugar, honey, and molasses in the bowl of a stand mixer. Scrape out the melted butter from the saucepan with a silicone spatula and add it to the mixer bowl. Using the paddle attachment, mix on medium speed until it turns a toffee-brown color, 4 to 5 minutes. Stop the mixer and scrape the sides of the bowl, add the crème fraîche, and mix on low speed until combined, 1 minute. Stop and scrape down the bowl. Mix in 1 egg at a time on medium speed until combined. Add the sifted dry ingredients and mix on low speed until combined, about 30 seconds. Stop and scrape down the sides of the bowl. On low speed, add the water and mix until combined. Remove the bowl from the mixer and scrape the sides. Fold in the crystallized ginger and transfer the cake batter to the prepared baking pan. Bake until the cake is golden brown on the surface and a skewer inserted in the center comes out clean, 50 to 60 minutes. Remove from the oven and let cool completely in the pan. Run a knife along the edges of the pan to release the cake and transfer to a serving plate.
5. To prepare the date bourbon sauce, melt the butter in a small saucepan over medium-high heat. Swirl the butter in the saucepan until the milk solids start to turn red. Whisk in the date syrup and bring to a boil. Remove from the heat and whisk in the cream, followed by the bourbon and the salt. Transfer to an airtight jar and refrigerate until ready to use. You can make this sauce 2 days ahead of time.
6. To serve, cut the cake into slices and serve with sweetened crème fraîche, a little lime zest, and a generous drizzle of the date bourbon sauce.

FOR THE DATE SYRUP BOURBON SAUCE

THE FLAVOR APPROACH

• Baking soda helps dissolve the pectin in the dried dates.
• Heat and the mechanical action of the blades will aid in pulverizing the dates and increasing the surface area of the dates for the baking soda to act on.
• Dried dates typically contain very low amounts of pH-sensitive anthocyanin pigments (compared to fresh dates). Despite this, the color of dried dates changes along with the pH during various stages of cooking. This is likely due to the activity of residual anthocyanin or other pigments. Baking soda will increase the pH, turning the dates a light toffee brown. As the puréed dates are heated, the baking soda breaks down at 176°F [80°C], producing sodium carbonate, which is more alkaline than baking soda. Heating the date mixture at an alkaline pH promotes caramelization and the Maillard reaction, turning the dates a dark brown color and then dark violet. Add acid (lemon juice or vinegar) and the pH decreases, turning the liquid a dark wine red. Using filtered water is recommended, as it includes less dissolved substances than tap water, which could interfere with the baking soda. Notice how the date syrup gives off a toasty sweet perfume.

1. Cut the dates to extract the pits from the centers; discard the pits. Chop the dates and transfer them to a medium bowl. Sprinkle the baking soda over the dates and, using a fork, toss to coat well. Add the warm water and mash the dates with the fork. Let the dates sit covered for 30 minutes; stir them occasionally with the fork.
2. After 30 minutes, the date pulp will resemble a thick, gloopy, soup-like mass. Using a spatula, transfer the mixture to a blender or the bowl of a food processor fitted with a blade. Pulse for a few seconds until you get a smooth toffee-brown purée. Transfer the date purée to a deep, medium saucepan, cover partially with a lid, and bring to a boil over medium-high heat. Lower the heat to low and cook, stirring occasionally, for 30 minutes, until you get a thick purée and the color switches to a dark reddish brown. Scrape the bottom of the saucepan to avoid burning. Stir in the lemon juice and remove from the heat.
3. Set a fine-mesh sieve lined with a few layers of cheesecloth over a funnel set over a bottle or medium bowl. Filter the date syrup through it in batches. Squeeze out any liquid and discard the date pulp left behind in the cloth. You should get about 2½ cups [600 ml] of liquid.
4. Transfer the liquid to a wide medium saucepan and bring to a boil over medium-high heat. Lower the heat to medium and cook until the liquid reduces to about 1 cup [240 ml]; it should be the consistency of a thick syrup and coat the back of a metal spoon or a plate; when you draw a line through the syrup, you should be able to leave a clean trail on the back of the spoon or the plate. This takes 25 to 30 minutes. If the syrup starts to stiffen on cooling, add a few tablespoons of boiling water to loosen it up. Transfer to a clean, sterile jar, seal with a lid, and store in the refrigerator for up to 3 to 4 weeks.